After 3 nights in Marrakech we headed to the coast, to a small fishing village called Essaouira, where Jimi Hendrix allegedly wrote Castles Made of Sand and Bob Marley visited. On the way, we stopped off at a women’s co-op for Argan Oil. Here we saw the process of harvesting the nuts (which starts with goats), and then the many steps that these women perform, essentially in their version of an assembly line, in order to make the oil. We tested products, and of course bought some (only later to discover how overpriced it was!).

When we arrived in Essaouira we were immediately told about the big storm that was on its way. The weather was gorgeous, so it seemed hard to believe, but we figured we might as well pack everything we wanted to do outdoors into that day just in case these rumors were true.

It was lunchtime, so we strolled down to the port and towards the fish market and grill stands that we had heard so much about. We were warned that we would be harassed by all of the guys trying to get our business, but even with the warning we weren’t prepared. We decided on our particular stand, for no particular reason, seeing as each one had the same exact offerings…but there were locals eating there so we thought it had legitimacy! Not much as far as seasoning, but fresh and delicious nonetheless.

We walked around the town and saw all the sites within a couple hours before settling in to watch the waves get larger and larger as the storm really did get closer.

For dinner we took the advice of Lonely Planet and headed to this really tiny, cool place called Elizir. We felt like we were in someone’s apartment at a dinner party as the French ballads played.  The menu was tiny but perfect. We split a pumpkin and leek soup and a cuttlefish risotto to start, followed by a grilled seabass for dinner, and a really delicious chocolate cake for dessert. If you find yourself in Essaouira, I highly recommend!

We had a big day planned for Thursday (Thanksgiving). Cooking class in the morning, and then a relaxing hammam (traditional Moroccan steam spa) in the afternoon…perfect for a rainy day.

After eating all of this delicious Moroccan food all week, we were excited to learn how to actually make a Tagine. The menu was a zucchini starter with ginger, garlic and parsley, and a lamb, apricot and almond tagine.

While our tagines cooked for 2.5 hours, we took a trip to the spice market to learn a bit more from Medicine Man, Mohamed. He took us through all the different traditional Moroccan spices used for cooking, as well as different teas, perfumes, natural remedies…and even things you can use to poison someone. Moroccans use every part of what they find in nature, so it was all really interesting to learn about. I couldn’t resist – I bought some tea and two spice blends to try out when I get home…which now just means my luggage has taken on a new smell. Only 2.5 weeks (or so) left to lug it around…oy 🙂

After our little spice lesson, we went back to our finished tagines and it was time for lunch. It was a proud moment for all 4 of us in the class!

A long leisurely lunch led to a food coma, not unlike what most of you were feeling on Thanksgiving, I’m sure. And what better way to indulge that further then a relaxing steam, heavy duty body scrub, and massage?!? It was 2 hours of pure relaxation. Unfortunately I have no pics from the Hammam…but honestly, “[you] don’t want to see that!” (thank you, Valerie Cherish)

And to end an already full, great day, we went to a little local restaurant for even more tagine and pastilla (the sweet and savory chicken pastry I wrote about a couple days ago) and some great live music. 3 local guys were singing reggae and classic rock, which was fitting for the stories told about the musical legends in this town. Their song choices were infectious. I only wish I knew the name of their band so I could find them on facebook – they were really that good!

The storm did hit, but it wasn’t as epic as we had originally heard. And luckily, it didn’t stop us from enjoying our 2 days in Essaouira!