I’m back in Spain now after a great week in Morocco. As much as I’ve loved the Moroccan meals, I was craving jamon; despite knowing very little French, I’m still finding myself defaulting to “merci” instead of “gracias”; but one thing’s for sure – it’s so nice to be able to dip my toothbrush into the water running from the faucet and not have to worry!
I’m in Madrid again for a couple of days and I decided to finally take that day trip that I tried to take last time but found myself having some train issues. So, onward to Segovia.
The massive aqueduct was the first thing I saw after getting off the bus. It’s the defining feature of the city, and very hard to miss. It dates back to the 1st or 2nd century and is made up of 25,000 granite blocks held together without mortar. Unreal!
Next up was the Cathedral. A beautiful Gothic structure with works of many artists inside. I especially loved this Tree of Life painting, and the unexpected Candyland-esque trim on one of the many internal chapels.
Tree of Life by Ignacio de Ries
I walked through this charming city to the opposite end in search of The Alcazar…the castle. It was the favorite residence of Alfonso X, Isabella, and Henry IV, but abandoned when the monarchy established residence in Madrid. Later the castle became the Royal Artillery School. From the outside it is truly what comes to mind when you think of a castle from a fairytale. But walking up the tower (actually the first tower or spire that I’ve climbed this trip), I was brought back to reality – I’ve been away from home and out of the gym for a while, and all of that jamon probably isn’t helping :).
These 3 historical features of the city were all fantastic, but what I really loved most about walking through Segovia were all of the amazing building facades, full of texture. I couldn’t help but take a million pictures for future inspiration for my own house, or castle…who knows what the future holds, and why limit my possibilities?!
Which is your favorite?
My second and final visitor, my friend Tori, will be with me for the next week in northern Spain. We’re going to be road tripping, stay tuned…
I didn’t forget my promise to post a sartorial edition. And while I’ve been working on it, these are not easy photos to capture. Firstly, I only just learned the shortcut to the camera on my iPhone and secondly, how do you become daring enough to not take these photos on the sly, from the back, etc? If anyone has some advice for my next addition, I’m open to it!
But regardless, here are the trends I have observed most while hanging out in Spain…
Navy is the New Black
Elbow Patches Everywhere (and more navy is the new black)
While our trip in Morocco was planned impeccably, sometimes things just don’t go according to plan. Because of the Moroccan storm, the road we needed to access to get up into the High Atlas Mountains was blocked. After experiencing less than ideal road conditions, meaning flooded roads with crowds of people watching as cars try to get across, we didn’t really feel it was worth the risk…and even if the road cleared, we still would not have been able to do the hiking that was planned up there, so we decided to be nimble and change the plan on the fly. We were driving back towards Marrakech anyway, so we decided to do one more night there and then move on to Casablanca so that our early morning flights on Sunday would be more convenient.
Luckily for us, our tour company booked us in a top-rate hotel in Marrakech. While we really liked our Riad the first time around, Palais Khum was next level. Our very spacious room was decorated fantastically, with Berber clothing and jewelry hanging on the walls. And there were rose petals (seemingly very typical in Morocco, or at least in Marrakech) everywhere…even in our toilet bowl! And don’t get me started on the shower (not amazing by Western standards but compared to the others we had been in in Morocco this was luxury all the way!). Needless to say, we traded up!
Can you imagine wearing something this heavy around your neck??
We took the day to do one more walk around the city and visit the La Momounia Hotel and Gardens. Stepping inside the grounds here is like visiting an entirely different city. Our hotels were inside the core of the medina, so we experienced the hustle and bustle of Marrakech;but at La Momounia you could very easily stay inside the property walls and never see the real Marrakech. Now don’t get me wrong, I would gladly stay here (if someone else was paying), but I’m really happy that I’ve first seen and felt and heard the city the way that I have.
After a luxurious night of our own at the Palais Khum, we hit the road again for our final stop, Casablanca. Now most people have a romanticized vision of this place because of what they’ve seen at the movies, but in actuality this is the center of commerce and isn’t a huge point of interest for tourism. However, having said that, there is one site in particular that is incredible – The Hassan II Mosque.
On our walk to the Mosque we stopped at a popular lunch spot, Sqala. We over-ordered, and overate, but we got to have some of our favorite Moroccan dishes one last time so it was well worth it!
After stuffing ourselves we kept following the path towards the mosque, a landmark literally impossible to miss. It has the world’s tallest minaret, and is the largest mosque on the continent. Additionally the mosque has a capacity of 105,000 worshippers at once!! The mosque is massive, and incredibly intricate in its decoration. Truly a sight to see!
While taking a tour of the mosque in French (it was the final tour of the day so it was better than nothing), we met another American and decided together to pay a taxi driver to take us around to see the other sites worth seeing. The negotiation process alone was an event, but once we settled on an amount, we went to see the very posh seaside area, with restaurants and clubs galore, as well as the Cathedral, which just so happened to be holding a fashion show inside. We took a walk in because we just couldn’t resist!
After our tour of the city we went out for our last meal in Morocco. Our hotel (Novotel, NOT to be confused with the Sofitel, which our driver first took us to, and got our hopes up for, before realizing his mistake and taking us right next door to the right place) was right by the port in Casablanca so we went to a fish and seafood hotspot right there. We decided to finally try a fish tagine, seeing as it would be our last chance, and had grilled calamari as well. The tagine wasn’t my favorite unfortunately (and in fact the best tagine we had over the entire trip were actually the 2 we had for lunch on day 1, go figure), but the calamari was delicious…plus I’m glad we tried the tagine before heading home.
That about wraps it up for Morocco. It’s like nowhere else I’ve ever traveled and I’m so glad that we went…and that we survived without getting sick. I’m now back in Madrid for a couple nights, and still readjusting to the fact that I can drink the water here. Tomorrow, off to Segovia for the day (you might remember this is where I tried to go previously but missed my train). More later…
After 3 nights in Marrakech we headed to the coast, to a small fishing village called Essaouira, where Jimi Hendrix allegedly wrote Castles Made of Sand and Bob Marley visited. On the way, we stopped off at a women’s co-op for Argan Oil. Here we saw the process of harvesting the nuts (which starts with goats), and then the many steps that these women perform, essentially in their version of an assembly line, in order to make the oil. We tested products, and of course bought some (only later to discover how overpriced it was!).
Goats play an important role in the making of Argan oil.The Argan Assembly Line
When we arrived in Essaouira we were immediately told about the big storm that was on its way. The weather was gorgeous, so it seemed hard to believe, but we figured we might as well pack everything we wanted to do outdoors into that day just in case these rumors were true.
It was lunchtime, so we strolled down to the port and towards the fish market and grill stands that we had heard so much about. We were warned that we would be harassed by all of the guys trying to get our business, but even with the warning we weren’t prepared. We decided on our particular stand, for no particular reason, seeing as each one had the same exact offerings…but there were locals eating there so we thought it had legitimacy! Not much as far as seasoning, but fresh and delicious nonetheless.
BEFORE
AFTER
We walked around the town and saw all the sites within a couple hours before settling in to watch the waves get larger and larger as the storm really did get closer.
For dinner we took the advice of Lonely Planet and headed to this really tiny, cool place called Elizir. We felt like we were in someone’s apartment at a dinner party as the French ballads played. The menu was tiny but perfect. We split a pumpkin and leek soup and a cuttlefish risotto to start, followed by a grilled seabass for dinner, and a really delicious chocolate cake for dessert. If you find yourself in Essaouira, I highly recommend!
We had a big day planned for Thursday (Thanksgiving). Cooking class in the morning, and then a relaxing hammam (traditional Moroccan steam spa) in the afternoon…perfect for a rainy day.
After eating all of this delicious Moroccan food all week, we were excited to learn how to actually make a Tagine. The menu was a zucchini starter with ginger, garlic and parsley, and a lamb, apricot and almond tagine.
While our tagines cooked for 2.5 hours, we took a trip to the spice market to learn a bit more from Medicine Man, Mohamed. He took us through all the different traditional Moroccan spices used for cooking, as well as different teas, perfumes, natural remedies…and even things you can use to poison someone. Moroccans use every part of what they find in nature, so it was all really interesting to learn about. I couldn’t resist – I bought some tea and two spice blends to try out when I get home…which now just means my luggage has taken on a new smell. Only 2.5 weeks (or so) left to lug it around…oy 🙂
After our little spice lesson, we went back to our finished tagines and it was time for lunch. It was a proud moment for all 4 of us in the class!
A long leisurely lunch led to a food coma, not unlike what most of you were feeling on Thanksgiving, I’m sure. And what better way to indulge that further then a relaxing steam, heavy duty body scrub, and massage?!? It was 2 hours of pure relaxation. Unfortunately I have no pics from the Hammam…but honestly, “[you] don’t want to see that!” (thank you, Valerie Cherish)
And to end an already full, great day, we went to a little local restaurant for even more tagine and pastilla (the sweet and savory chicken pastry I wrote about a couple days ago) and some great live music. 3 local guys were singing reggae and classic rock, which was fitting for the stories told about the musical legends in this town. Their song choices were infectious. I only wish I knew the name of their band so I could find them on facebook – they were really that good!
The storm did hit, but it wasn’t as epic as we had originally heard. And luckily, it didn’t stop us from enjoying our 2 days in Essaouira!
As everyone sits down to their Thanksgiving meals and reflects on what they’re thankful for, I figured I’d do the same, despite no turkey or the like. Of course health, happiness, family, friends…wifi in all my hotels…but I’d also like to say Thank You Fox for making this all possible…truly :).
Special shout out to my dad on his birthday, love you!
Day 2 in Morocco was a whirlwind. We spent the majority of the day in the souk, which is the open-air marketplace, only the size of the one in Marrakech can’t even be comprehended. It all would have been beyond overwhelming had our main man, and guide, Latif, not been with us! The souk twists and turns throughout the medina, with different trades and crafts taking place and being sold in each section. If I had attempted this on my own I probably would’ve given up fairly early, as I have no patience for huge places where you have to dig deep for that one hidden treasure (Forever XXI, for example). On the surface you can look at a lot of junk in the souk, but when you know where to go there are some really fine stores and craftsmen within.
We started the day in the metal section. Sarah was in the market for a lamp, and she scored with a beautiful orb-shaped one. While this was on Sarah’s list of priorities, I think both of us were still thinking about our experience with the rugs the day before and how we left empty-handed. Well, we were ready to give it another go now that we had been in the city for a little longer and seen some other offerings.
So, next up we went to a rug co-op within the souk (different from the co-op from the previous day). Again we were brought into the massive showroom, and a team of guys waited on us, demonstrating the different types of Moroccan rugs and then working with us to find the ones we were interested in. But first, we started with some mint tea.
Sarah was in the market for a round rug (5′ in diameter to be exact), and I didn’t have a specific need but I was still thinking about that red rug from yesterday (most of you seemed to be too), so I wanted to see more. The team rolled out 10s, maybe even a 100 or so rugs, of different styles and tribes, all handmade and hand dyed. As we started to narrow down our choices, we learned 2 very important words/phrases (and excuse me if I’m butchering the spelling – google translate isn’t particularly helpful in this part of the world): Ishme, which means take it away/not interested; and Halle, which means keep. So we were throwing around our new terms left and right until we had each narrowed our choices to 2 or 3 different rugs. Now the fun begins! When you come to Morocco you have to be ready to bargain. We were told to never pay full price, and in fact to offer the seller 50% of their starting price. So, first I started negotiating for this beautiful Kilim, or flat-weave style tribal rug, for my bedroom:
Meanwhile, the team was bringing me different versions of the red rug that I liked the previous day. Ishme, Ishme, Ishme…Halle! As I was negotiating on the Kilim above, somehow this 2nd rug started making it’s way into the deal. I had no intention of buying 2 rugs, but the price was right, and of course the deal for rug 1 was sweetened when the 2nd came into the picture. So, I also ended up with this unique Chichaoua rug, colored from poppies, to replace the boring brown rug in my living room:
SO, how do you think I did??
Sarah ended up with a vibrant circular rug, perfect for her space and exactly what she wanted. All in all, it was a successful visit (Thank you, Momo!) and we rode the adrenaline of our negotiations for the rest of the afternoon!!
We toured the rest of the souk, seeing the different leather workers, the wool dyers, etc.
And we even got a little demonstration on different ways to wear a scarf.
My Desert Look
After a long day in the winding-roads of the souk, we said goodbye to our main man, Latif. He was a great guide, and made our experience in Marrakech much more informative and comfortable.
As per usual, we had worked up quite an appetite from the day. We ate in at the Riad, where dinner started with a number of traditional Moroccan salads. Cooked carrots, beets, zucchini, all marinated with delicious herbs and spices, and then our favorite, a roasted red pepper salad of some sort…we licked the bowl clean!!
Up next was our favorite new find in Morocco, Chicken Pastilla. Imagine savory chicken with cumin (or something in that family), mixed with nuts and cinnamon, all rolled up into puff pastry. Flavors that you would never think to put together, and yet they are heavenly!!
To end the night, we took a walk around the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa. All sorts of musicians and other performers (snake charmers, contortionists, etc.), as well as street-food vendors, fill the square at night. Everyone is vying for the attention, and money, of tourists, and in fact the performers won’t even start performing until some coins are given. Note:Morocco is all about the tips, everyone is looking for some coins for something (directions, pictures, handing you toilet paper, performances, you name it!). So, we walked around watching, mostly from afar, and then were accosted by every food vendor we passed. Each of them trying to guess our nationality – Italian? Spanish? Mexican? – in an attempt to try to woo us towards them. Each basically saying and doing the same things to get our attention…except one boy who we will never forget. As we passed him, we were rejecting him before he even got words out of his mouth and then he said something that we couldn’t help but acknowledge and smile at, “2 years guarantee, no diarrhea.” The perfect come-on in the land where anything can happen, intestinally. Perfectly charming and hysterical. We didn’t buy anything from him, but we’ll be talking about him (and stealing his line) for years to come, I know.
Have you ever thought about what you were singing when you sang the chorus to that song and then pretended to know the verse? Well, I never did…until today when I was actually at a Casbah (read:fortress; the one below is Bab Agnaou, the royal fortress.) for the first time.
Today was Day One in Marrakech. We arrived late last night and were met by a guide and driver. They took us inside the walls of the old city and then guided us by foot through the winding streets and alleys of the medina to our Riad, which are homes, with courtyards, that have been converted into hotels. The charm and authenticity of Riad Ilayka was apparent from moment one.
Upon arrival we were offered fruit juice and some cookies. Now, for those who haven’t been to Morocco, it isn’t unlike a visit to Mexico in that you are told not to drink the water or anything that can’t be peeled or isn’t cooked. So, the hypochondriac in me is determined not to come close to crossing this line and ending up sidelined for the rest of the week! I warned Sarah before we arrived that I would essentially be the Charlotte of the Sex and the City movie’s trip to Mexico…minus the Poughkeepsie :). HOWEVER, how can you turn down the kindness and generosity of this first offering of juice and cookies?!? It was a crapshoot (literally), but we decided to take our chances…
Breakfast was served at the hotel, and we were pleased to find these mini tagines of jam with a bunch of bread and pastries, as well as both a chocolate and carrot yogurt.
We were then met by our guide, Latif, to start our day in the old city. We visited the Koutoubia Mosque, Saadian Tombs, the Casbah, Bahia Palace, the old Jewish Synagogue, an herbalist , and a carpet co-op, before heading outside the walls to the new part of town for lunch and a visit to the Majorelle Gardens, which were purchased and kept up by Yves Sant Laurent starting in 1980.
The gorgeous tile and design at all of these sites are absolutely stunning!
Right inside the Casbah we found the herbalist who is known (according to Latif) to have the best Argan Oil products in the city. We went inside for a very educational experience and left with our first purchases in Morocco (and neck massages!). I loved the old apothecary look and the natural remedies for just about everything!
At the carpet co-op, we were treated to some Moroccon kindness, otherwise known as tea, and a full blown presentation of this co-ops many offerings. After seeing carpets pile one on top of another to the point of confusion, we decided we needed a day to think about it. What do you think of the two I’m considering below??
This busy morning helped us work up an appetite for our first traditional Moroccan Tagines. Both were so delicious we were using our bread to sop up as much of the stewy sauces as we could!!
After lunch it was off to the Gardens, a tropical paradise full of this crazy cobalt blue named after the artist who created these gardens, Jacques Majorelle.
It was a full day in Marrakech, followed by a tasting menu dinner at the very fun La Salama, where your own fez is waiting for you at the table. Traditional Moroccan salads, different tagines, cous cous, and then mint tea and pastries galore. We didn’t come close to finishing it all, but we went for it!
Yesterday morning I took the high-speed train to Barcelona, the perfect 3 hour opportunity for more Serial (somehow I stopped myself so that I could save episode 9 for another day). I met up with friends, Sarah and Alisa, and we’ve packed a lot into our 2 days here – jamon, Gaudi, more jamon, you get the picture.
First up yesterday was lunch at La Boqueria, the big market in the city. We walked around visiting the different stalls before committing to one sit-down place for lunch. We started with an appetizer of different types of jamon served in paper serving cones (these cones are all the rage right now!), and then found ourselves at a seafood stall where we had great pulpo (octopus) and fish.
We took a walking tour of the Gothic Quarter, including the old Jewish synagogue where I remembered seeing this beautiful stained glass window years ago (Rach, do you remember this?).
After a nice long siesta we were ready to eat again, so it was off to Mont Bar, which came highly recommended by friends. The food was good, but this smoked tuna belly was GREAT! The homemade chocolate ice cream with pop rocks wasn’t too shabby either.
After dinner we stopped off at an old hangout from Sarah’s days abroad in Barcelona, 12 years ago – La Pipa Club. It used to be a secret bar where you had to buzz up to have the door opened for you. Today, the entrance is different but everything else has remained the same. A good walk down memory lane and then we had to call it a night.
Day 2 was equally as food intensive! We knew we were going to Cal Pep for lunch, so we planned the entire day around it. First up was a walk down Passeig de Gracia to see all of the Gaudi sites. I’ve seen these buildings – Casa Batllo, La Pedrera, La Sagrada Familia – a couple times before, but they really are amazing each and every time! In front of La Pedrera, I immediately had flashbacks to being on this street years ago and almost losing my shorts, a few of you might remember that too 😉.
Casa BatloLa Sagrada Familia
After working up an appetite on our walk, it was finally time for Cal Pep. I had been for a memorable dinner back in 2006 and was excited to return. The waitstaff all looked remarkably familiar, and the crazy thing is I have photos from that visit and they are all still the same!! Lunch was pan con tomate, jamon (we ordered an extra plate because it went so quickly), amazing fried artichokes (!!!), tuna tartare, and grilled squid.
In our food comas, we made a stop at the Picasso museum and saw early works from the teenage years. We called it an early day and took a short siesta so that we could head out for some futbol. FC Barcelona v. Sevilla FC. It was awesome to be in Barcelona’s big house, Camp Nou, and even better that Barca won 5-1, with their star player, Messi, scoring 3 goals. Quite an experience!!
Heading down to Morocco tonight for the week. But until then, miles of jamon before we sleep.
Today I got cocky. I was all set to take a day trip to Segovia, I got up and out earlyish and took a beautiful walk through El Retiro, think Central Park, as I made my way to the train station. I had 15 minutes to spare, I had this…until I tried to buy a ticket and realized that this particular train departed from a different station, whoops! The next train was sold out, and the one after that wasn’t for another few hours, so I had to improvise…and I’m so happy that I did because it was a beautiful, fall, sunny day in Madrid and I had plenty to do to fill the extra day here.
First stop: The Botanical Gardens. I walked around these tranquil grounds as I listened to my stockpiled SERIAL (who’s listening?? I’m totally hooked, but NO spoilers please!!). Some might think it a strange choice while walking around in beautiful nature, but it was perfect for me!
Afterwards, I headed over to another art museum, Museo Thyssen. This was by far my favorite of the museums in Madrid! Their layout was the most inviting and accessible, and their collection is great. Right now there is also a temporary Givenchy exhibit, which was a lot of fun…dresses worn by Audrey Hepburn, Jackie O, different royals, etc.
For the rest of the day and night I was focused on food and roaming the streets of my neighborhood, Salamanca. (Mao, you should probably stop reading now 😉 ) Some Jamon Iberico, a night at Mercado San Miguel, and Churros…I couldn’t leave Madrid without crossing these things off my list. Those that know me well know that The Fairfax Farmer’s Market is one of my favorite places in L.A. Well, a night at Mercado San Miguel isn’t that different – there are various stalls with all sorts of Spanish foods (plus 1 stall of sushi?), and a bustling crowd. I had a variety of tapas and seafood and some Sangria, and then I headed out to Madrid’s most famous place for churros, Chocolateria San Gines. NO, I didn’t finish this huge order of churros, but yes I enjoyed every bite (how can you not?!)
And lastly, there was such great response to navy is the new black so I wanted to let you know I’m working on snapping some street style shots and will have a Spanish Sartorial post soon! Stay tuned…
Tomorrow morning I’m off to Barcelona for the weekend. Goodnight Madrid.
I arrived in Madrid yesterday, the first stop on my month-long adventure. Most of my first day was spent wandering aimlessly, delirious from jet lag, nibbling on warm chestnuts from a street vendor, and then catching up with old friends, Jaime and Fabiola, over a Mexican dinner (I definitely thought I was going to be without Mexican food for a month!!).
Today was all about the art at Museo del Prado and the Reina Sofia. The Prado was celebrating an anniversary, so the 14 euro fee was waived…what luck!! My art history classes from college came flooding back to me as I was surrounded by the Velazquez and Goya paintings at the Prado, and Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia. Walking the halls of these two massive museums helped me to work up an appetite! When in Spain, Tortilla, Bocadillo de calamares, and delicious pastries are not to be missed!
And to top off an already productive day, tonight I found myself at a funny club called La Riviera dancing as Sharon Jones & The Dap Kings played. I always enjoy trying to see a concert if possible when I’m traveling – if you haven’t treated yourself to a concert outside of the US, I highly recommend it.
And, in conclusion, before I succumb to the struggle that is jet lag on night 2, I will leave you with just a little something I’ve learned while wandering around this city for the past two days…Navy is the new black! All of the chic Spaniards that I’m passing on the street are wearing Navy Blue suits, outerwear, etc. So happy now in hindsight that I went with the navy down jacket at Uniqlo…who knew I’d be so on trend?!
The Laid-Off Life 