Marrakech

While our trip in Morocco was planned impeccably, sometimes things just don’t go according to plan. Because of the Moroccan storm, the road we needed to access to get up into the High Atlas Mountains was blocked. After experiencing less than ideal road conditions, meaning flooded roads with crowds of people watching as cars try to get across, we didn’t really feel it was worth the risk…and even if the road cleared, we still would not have been able to do the hiking that was planned up there, so we decided to be nimble and change the plan on the fly. We were driving back towards Marrakech anyway, so we decided to do one more night there and then move on to Casablanca so that our early morning flights on Sunday would be more convenient.

Luckily for us, our tour company booked us in a top-rate hotel in Marrakech. While we really liked our Riad the first time around, Palais Khum was next level. Our very spacious room was decorated fantastically, with Berber clothing and jewelry hanging on the walls. And there were rose petals (seemingly very typical in Morocco, or at least in Marrakech) everywhere…even in our toilet bowl! And don’t get me started on the shower (not amazing by Western standards but compared to the others we had been in in Morocco this was luxury all the way!). Needless to say, we traded up!

Can you imagine wearing something this heavy around your neck??

We took the day to do one more walk around the city and visit the La Momounia Hotel and Gardens. Stepping inside the grounds here is like visiting an entirely different city. Our hotels were inside the core of the medina, so we experienced the hustle and bustle of Marrakech;but at La Momounia you could very easily stay inside the property walls and never see the real Marrakech. Now don’t get me wrong, I would gladly stay here (if someone else was paying), but I’m really happy that I’ve first seen and felt and heard the city the way that I have.

After a luxurious night of our own at the Palais Khum, we hit the road again for our final stop, Casablanca. Now most people have a romanticized vision of this place because of what they’ve seen at the movies, but in actuality this is the center of commerce and isn’t a huge point of interest for tourism. However, having said that, there is one site in particular that is incredible – The Hassan II Mosque.

On our walk to the Mosque we stopped at a popular lunch spot, Sqala. We over-ordered, and overate, but we got to have some of our favorite Moroccan dishes one last time so it was well worth it!

After stuffing ourselves we kept following the path towards the mosque, a landmark literally impossible to miss. It has the world’s tallest minaret, and is the largest mosque on the continent. Additionally the mosque has a capacity of 105,000 worshippers at once!! The mosque is massive, and incredibly intricate in its decoration. Truly a sight to see!

While taking a tour of the mosque in French (it was the final tour of the day so it was better than nothing), we met another American and decided together to pay a taxi driver to take us around to see the other sites worth seeing. The negotiation process alone was an event, but once we settled on an amount, we went to see the very posh seaside area, with restaurants and clubs galore, as well as the Cathedral, which just so happened to be holding a fashion show inside. We took a walk in because we just couldn’t resist!

After our tour of the city we went out for our last meal in Morocco. Our hotel (Novotel, NOT to be confused with the Sofitel, which our driver first took us to, and got our hopes up for, before realizing his mistake and taking us right next door to the right place) was right by the port in Casablanca so we went to a fish and seafood hotspot right there. We decided to finally try a fish tagine, seeing as it would be our last chance, and had grilled calamari as well. The tagine wasn’t my favorite unfortunately (and in fact the best tagine we had over the entire trip were actually the 2 we had for lunch on day 1, go figure), but the calamari was delicious…plus I’m glad we tried the tagine before heading home.

That about wraps it up for Morocco. It’s like nowhere else I’ve ever traveled and I’m so glad that we went…and that we survived without getting sick. I’m now back in Madrid for a couple nights, and still readjusting to the fact that I can drink the water here. Tomorrow, off to Segovia for the day (you might remember this is where I tried to go previously but missed my train). More later…

Have you ever thought about what you were singing when you sang the chorus to that song and then pretended to know the verse? Well, I never did…until today when I was actually at a Casbah (read:fortress; the one below is Bab Agnaou, the royal fortress.) for the first time.

Today was Day One in Marrakech. We arrived late last night and were met by a guide and driver. They took us inside the walls of the old city and then guided us by foot through the winding streets and alleys of the medina to our Riad, which are homes, with courtyards, that have been converted into hotels. The charm and authenticity of Riad Ilayka was apparent from moment one.

Upon arrival we were offered fruit juice and some cookies. Now, for those who haven’t been to Morocco, it isn’t unlike a visit to Mexico in that you are told not to drink the water or anything that can’t be peeled or isn’t cooked. So, the hypochondriac in me is determined not to come close to crossing this line and ending up sidelined for the rest of the week! I warned Sarah before we arrived that I would essentially be the Charlotte of the Sex and the City movie’s trip to Mexico…minus the Poughkeepsie :). HOWEVER, how can you turn down the kindness and generosity of this first offering of juice and cookies?!? It was a crapshoot (literally), but we decided to take our chances…

Breakfast was served at the hotel, and we were pleased to find these mini tagines of jam with a bunch of bread and pastries, as well as both a chocolate and carrot yogurt.

We were then met by our guide, Latif, to start our day in the old city. We visited the Koutoubia Mosque, Saadian Tombs, the Casbah, Bahia Palace, the old Jewish Synagogue, an herbalist , and a carpet co-op, before heading outside the walls to the new part of town for lunch and a visit to the Majorelle Gardens, which were purchased and kept up by Yves Sant Laurent starting in 1980.

The gorgeous tile and design at all of these sites are absolutely stunning!

Right inside the Casbah we found the herbalist who is known (according to Latif) to have the best Argan Oil products in the city. We went inside for a very educational experience and left with our first purchases in Morocco (and neck massages!). I loved the old apothecary look and the natural remedies for just about everything!

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At the carpet co-op, we were treated to some Moroccon kindness, otherwise known as tea, and a full blown presentation of this co-ops many offerings. After seeing carpets pile one on top of another to the point of confusion, we decided we needed a day to think about it. What do you think of the two I’m considering below??

This busy morning helped us work up an appetite for our first traditional Moroccan Tagines. Both were so delicious we were using our bread to sop up as much of the stewy sauces as we could!!

After lunch it was off to the Gardens, a tropical paradise full of this crazy cobalt blue named after the artist who created these gardens, Jacques Majorelle.

It was a full day in Marrakech, followed by a tasting menu dinner at the very fun La Salama, where your own fez is waiting for you at the table. Traditional Moroccan salads, different tagines, cous cous, and then mint tea and pastries galore. We didn’t come close to finishing it all, but we went for it!

The Laid-Off Life

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ROCK THE CASBAH