What I’m loving about BA right now is the pace. I don’t know if it’s that I have so much time here that I’m not in a rush, or if it’s actually the lifestyle of the porteños, but I think it must be a little bit of both. So, the fact that I got a late start today didn’t matter at all!

 

Todays big activity was a graffiti and street-art tour given by an organization called graffitimundo. I highly recommend this for anyone who finds themselves in BA!! It was such a great way to see the city, learn about its history, and find out more about some of the murals around town. Admittedly, before I arrived in BA I didn’t know very much about Argentine history or government, other than its financial collapse in 2001, but through learning about the rise of street art in the country I actually got a greater education about this place and its history at the same time. From murals about frustration with corruption to graffiti acting as an estranged father’s only method of communication with his young children, we saw it all. Here were some of my favorites:

Aside from the street art which is everywhere here, I’ve also been noticing some other forms of art that are worth pointing out.

First, street performers and acrobats taking over intersections at red lights. In my 3 full days here I have seen this happen 3 times! And actually, for similar purposes of asking for money, but in a different location, on the subway I witnessed two people acting as a couple pretending to very vocally get into a fight and then start to involve a number of people on our car. Before realizing what was really going on, I of course clutched my bag tightly to my body thinking for sure this was that moment where all of my stuff was going to get stolen, but after playing out the scene for 5 minutes or so the hat started making the rounds for change. But anyway, I digress…a few photos of our street performers:

  

I saw this cool art installation just steps from the Teatro Colon (Opera House). It’s a triangular arrangement of music stands, some of which seem to be filled with dirt. I still haven’t been able to figure out who did it, what it might be about, or how long it’s been there, but I’m very curious!!

  

And finally, as far as the art is concerned, I can’t help but notice the amazing tiled floors many places that I go. Just like the textured facades of the buildings I was obsessed with in Europe, the tiled floor is my thing here.

   

So now, enough with my city observations…I’m sure you’re wondering what was for dinner, right?!! Oh, you know, just one of South America’s best. Tegui, voted 9th on the San Pelligrino list of Latin America’s Top 50 . You would never know it though from the outside, which is covered in graffiti style art.

The inside is a complete 180 from what you’d expect when outside. Through the warehouse-style door is a narrow, elegant and refined space. To be honest, maybe even too much so. The food here is a little playful, so I kind of wished the mood was a bit moreso. But if that’s my only complaint they’re not doing too bad!

As soon as I sat down a piece of paper was given to me – not the menu, but instead essentially a price sheet. 5-course price fix for 700ARS or 10-course for 1000ARS, with wine pairing prices listed below.  Point being, it’s a secret menu – you agree to one menu or the other based on zero information, other than waiters asking if you have any allergies or if there’s anything you won’t eat. I said I would eat anything, and so the meal began…and by the way, of course I felt I HAD to go with the 10 course…

Mate flavored bread with homemade salted butter

Different textures of tomato with goat cheese. There was a sorbet on top, a pickled tomato, a few thin tomato chip slices, and a jammy relish all on top of 1 large yellow tomato slice, surrounded by a basil.

Stone fruit with chocolate mousse, vanilla syrup, yogurt ice cream, peach ice cream. The yogurt ice cream and chocolate mousse were fantastic.